What's your 401k asset allocation?

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Do you think this is better?

30% Core equity (large caps)
25% Mid cap index
25% Small cap index
10% International emerging markets index
10% International equity index
Yes that's fine. I try to weight the US funds by market capitalization to imitate a total stock market index fund but it probably won't make much difference. Something like:

50% Core equity (large caps)
20% Mid cap index
10% Small cap index
5% International emerging markets index
15% International equity index

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I see cheap I am not changing what I have. Hell, I might as well buy more. Summarizing the Case for International Stocks

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Changing asset allocations is akin to buy high, sell low. Repeat over and over. One of the common mistakes of beginner investors. Pick one asset allocation you like and stick to it until retirement. If you don't like international, then don't buy any. That's absolutely fine too. Just don't keep switching back and forth.

All about asset allocation
 
I am in NTGI S&P 500 Index Fund. It is cheap and has consistently outperformed the market. I couldn't remember the name of it off the top of my head and had to look it up once at work.
 
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I am in NTGI S&P 500 Index Fund. It is cheap and has consistently outperformed the market. I couldn't remember the name of it off the top of my head and had to look it up once at work.

Is there anything else in your portfolio?
 
. I receive a pension too. I'm not retiring for another twenty years so I don't care if it goes down tomorrow.

I mean are your 100% in the S&P? Any small caps, mid caps, international? I don't think anyone here cares if their retirement accounts go down tomorrow.
 
I am 100% in NTGI S&P 500 Index Fund for 401k. My physical cash and Roth are in Berkshire b. For about eight years I was all ntgi s&p 500 index fund.
 
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I am in NTGI S&P 500 Index Fund. It is cheap and has consistently outperformed the market. I couldn't remember the name of it off the top of my head and had to look it up once at work.

As long as the ER > 0 it’s mathematically impossible to beat the benchmark your fund is pegged to if the benchmark and holdings are identical. Technically your fund underperformed the market by 0.03% (source: prospectus), unless you’re talking about the total market...then yes, large caps outperformed.

If you have a pension, it would behoove you to dial up the risk and diversify with small and mid cap stocks.

But holding 100% an S&P 500 fund isn’t a completely bad idea, before everyone else jumps on that.

My main concern is that all the FAANG stocks comprise a big bulk of all those gains. Just a few stocks need to fall to have an outsize effect on these market weighted funds.

Ok I’m rambling, back to my rock.


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My wife's 401k is at Fidelity and for some reason there is no small cap index fund to choose from, they have everything else. I then searched for a small cap ETF for her Roth and I didn't find one from Fidelity either. I think I'll go with IJR which they offer fee-free.

Why does Fidelity not have any small cap selection?
 
My wife's 401k is at Fidelity and for some reason there is no small cap index fund to choose from, they have everything else. I then searched for a small cap ETF for her Roth and I didn't find one from Fidelity either. I think I'll go with IJR which they offer fee-free.

Why does Fidelity not have any small cap selection?

FSLCX or FSSNX for mutual fund/401k, took me scrolling to find it.

Haven’t looked on the ETF side yet, but I. Sure it’s there.

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Do you guys setup auto-rebalance? How often do you do it - quarterly, semi annually or annually?
 
Do you guys setup auto-rebalance? How often do you do it - quarterly, semi annually or annually?
I used to manually re balance every 6 months - not to harp on my previous post, I then moved to the target date funds simply to make things easier and not have to worry about it.
 
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95% Blackrock Russell 1000
5% Blackrock Russell 2000

I have more faith in the large caps for growth into the near future and riding out any upcoming recession. I believe holding current bonds (that will collapse if/when the rates start increasing, then evenly increase as the rates stabilize) is not a good investment at my time horizon. I am more excited about bulking up my life insurance policy.

Work just started a Roth 401k contribution option, so yes please to that.
 
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95% Blackrock Russell 1000
5% Blackrock Russell 2000

I have more faith in the large caps for growth into the near future and riding out any upcoming recession. I believe holding current bonds (that will collapse if/when the rates start increasing, then evenly increase as the rates stabilize) is not a good investment at my time horizon. I am more excited about bulking up my life insurance policy.

Work just started a Roth 401k contribution option, so yes please to that.

Do you recommend a life insurance company and policy? I keep putting that off.
 
Do you recommend a life insurance company and policy? I keep putting that off.

If you're single and young, maybe not so much. If you're married and especially if you have kids, then yes. Always go term life, though.
 
If you're single and young, maybe not so much. If you're married and especially if you have kids, then yes. Always go term life, though.

I meant is there a company (Metlife, AIG etc) that you recommend?
 
I meant is there a company (Metlife, AIG etc) that you recommend?

Whatever is cheapest

Really as long as they have a decent AM Best rating AND they’re part of your state’s guaranty association (which protects you if they go bankrupt) it’s fine.

Reality is, if it goes bankrupt, you only pay premiums once a year so theoretically you would just go to another company and you didn’t lose anything (except maybe if you have a chronic illness now you’ll pay a bit more).

The only issue is if you die and the insurance company goes bankrupt between the day of your death and when it pays, which is the point of the state guaranty.

That said, I have AIG for policy #1, LG America/Banner for policy #2, and Haven (Mass Mutual) for policy #3.


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Do you recommend a life insurance company and policy? I keep putting that off.
ONLY TERM LIFE - do not do whole life.
THere are tons of reputable agents - I have pacific life
 
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Do you recommend a life insurance company and policy? I keep putting that off.

It depends on what your need is, are you looking for death premium or cash accumulation?

(you should have a different plan(s) for both)

The one I was referring to is for cash accumulation with a focus being an divorce proof and flexibility of payments. It is through North American, which supposively gives a lot of agents trouble, but I can't claim to have had any in my dealings with them.
 
It depends on what your need is, are you looking for death premium or cash accumulation?

(you should have a different plan(s) for both)

The one I was referring to is for cash accumulation with a focus being an divorce proof and flexibility of payments. It is through North American, which supposively gives a lot of agents trouble, but I can't claim to have had any in my dealings with them.

I think death premium? To leave behind for my wife and kid in case I die.
 
I have a few 401Ks, 453b, etc from PT, FT employers in the past. The reason I leave it alone is because i feel some employer investment mixes are better than others and I don’t want to loose in well performing portfolios. But on the other hand, the management fee and the upkeep of documents can be a handful.

Disclosure: I did have some of these retirement savings before I was married. And want to keep those separate from any of those since I was married. So, I can not consolidate to my current employer just so we are clear...

But, do you think I should consolidate ?
And how do I do that given my “disclosure”?

Thank you !
 
I have a few 401Ks, 453b, etc from PT, FT employers in the past. The reason I leave it alone is because i feel some employer investment mixes are better than others and I don’t want to loose in well performing portfolios. But on the other hand, the management fee and the upkeep of documents can be a handful.

Disclosure: I did have some of these retirement savings before I was married. And want to keep those separate from any of those since I was married. So, I can not consolidate to my current employer just so we are clear...

But, do you think I should consolidate ?
And how do I do that given my “disclosure”?

Thank you !

I think you should consolidate, why not? Are you afraid of losing your old 401k in a divorce?

I think I will rollover my old 401k into my new one. Makes things simpler.
 
I think you should consolidate, why not? Are you afraid of losing your old 401k in a divorce?

I think I will rollover my old 401k into my new one. Makes things simpler.

To put it bluntly yes, that’s why I’m cautions about consolidating ....
 
I have a few 401Ks, 453b, etc from PT, FT employers in the past. The reason I leave it alone is because i feel some employer investment mixes are better than others and I don’t want to loose in well performing portfolios. But on the other hand, the management fee and the upkeep of documents can be a handful.

Disclosure: I did have some of these retirement savings before I was married. And want to keep those separate from any of those since I was married. So, I can not consolidate to my current employer just so we are clear...

But, do you think I should consolidate ?
And how do I do that given my “disclosure”?

Thank you !
You should compare the funds you have there to the right index. I can guarantee you, it probably underperformed the index and you are paying alot for it if it's actively managed. Pit large cap vs. S&P 500, small cap vs. Small cap index, international vs. International index.

Do not commingle your funds. Keep your previous assets separate. Once you commingle accounts, it becomes a joint account. 50% gone in case of a divorce. I'd not commingle accounts if I were you.

If ER isn't reasonable (more >0.5%, or they charge you extra since you aren't an employee anymore), then you can roll it over to IRA and pick your own funds/stocks at fidelity/Vanguard. If you do Backdoor Roth every year, you can't have IRA account.
 
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To put it bluntly yes, that’s why I’m cautions about consolidating ....
I don't think it really matters from a divorce standpoint whether or not you consolidate - obviously some depends on your state laws, but the money is either marital property or it isn't - consolidation shouldn't matter.
 
I don't think it really matters from a divorce standpoint whether or not you consolidate - obviously some depends on your state laws, but the money is either marital property or it isn't - consolidation shouldn't matter.

I think I’d stay clear of mixing it just in case...
 
I don't think it really matters from a divorce standpoint whether or not you consolidate - obviously some depends on your state laws, but the money is either marital property or it isn't - consolidation shouldn't matter.
This is wrong. Do not consolidate with your after marriage money. Once you commingle, it becomes extremely hard separate it from marital property.

"I withdraw 10k to buy a new toy using my own money"
"no, you didn't, you said you paid it with our money"

No judge will side with you in this case.

Don't fu3king do it.
 
You should compare the funds you have there to the right index. I can guarantee you, it probably underperformed the index and you are paying alot for it if it's actively managed. Pit large cap vs. S&P 500, small cap vs. Small cap index, international vs. International index.

Do not commingle your funds. Keep your previous assets separate. Once you commingle accounts, it becomes a joint account. 50% gone in case of a divorce. I'd not commingle accounts if I were you.

If ER isn't reasonable (more >0.5%, or they charge you extra since you aren't an employee anymore), then you can roll it over to IRA and pick your own funds/stocks at fidelity/Vanguard. If you do Backdoor Roth every year, you can't have IRA account.

Thanks for those good pointers. Point well taken on staying clear of commingling funds.

what is “ER” ?
 
I think death premium? To leave behind for my wife and kid in case I die.

In that case you will want term, since you get the most death benefit for the dollar hands down.

The best is to find an agent/office that deals with multiple insurance companies, as they are more likely to be skilled at the proper setup and construction of policies. Even though term life is a very mature product, it's still worth it to get more than one quote, as some companies may not have term life as their competitively priced focus or may charge a premium to customers that fit in your demographic. It's also important that not only you, but your spouse and any potential survivors (including potential caretakers) are comfortable with the agency, which is one of the main reasons to use a local office.

The plan should be specifically tailored to you, not a group plan (workplace plans are the worst) so that you are given the most favorable terms for your chance of longevity. You should always try to be with a company that scores you the highest (usually called Super Preferred Non-Tobacco), and an experienced agent will know that different companies have very different ways of ranking potential customers. Some may care how your relatives of the n'th degree have died, some may not. Different thresholds for BMI exist. Some use a points scoring system, others may use a "three from column A, two from column B" approach. Some may not even care about certain genetic conditions or other problems.

You should follow up with the agent if there's a plan you're interested in that you may not have Super Preferred with to see if there is anything you can do to increase your ranking (decrease your cost) like lose weight or quit smoking. Temporarily quit (or don't mention) any dangerous hobbies, such as hang-gliding, scuba diving, piloting, snow-mobiling, etc. Don't lie, of course, but get yourself the most favorable status.

Different plans have different options. You pay for each favorable option. One of the most popular (and I do recommend) is the option to renew your plan near the end of the term without a medical examination. It sucks to see a client a year out from his plan's expiration and develop prostate cancer. The closer to the end of your term you have to decide, the more risk the insurance company assumes and the higher the premium (not that much higher, but it adds up).

It's rare, but certain plans have you pay a lot more in exchange for returning the premium at the end of the term (assuming you didn't die). Avoid this if it's offered, because they're charging additional premium to float the cost of the insurance. This is the -actual- "buy term and invest the difference" thing the Dave Ramsey quoters speak of, only the insurance is "investing" it for you.

It's important to discuss the possiblity of decreasing the amount of the plan's coverage over time as an option. Most plans have this. If you start with a 30 year plan for 1.5mil, for example, but then the children graduate college and the house is paid off, you may want to reduce the amount to 1 million and reduce the premium. Some people suggest doing this with a "ladder" approach of multiple term plans for varying lengths of time, but having a bigger plan the you can reduce at will gives more flexibility of the timing later. Say, for example, one of your children has a grandchild and then becomes incapacitated and now you must raise it? You may want to keep the 1.5 mil longer at the premium rate you set 15 years ago instead of trying to obtain a new plan at your advanced age and possible additional health conditions.

You should go in knowing about how much you want to ask for. There are a number of rules-of-thumb, but simply calculate all of your debts (loans de school, auto, home, etc), any future obligations (childcare, tuition) and add an amount that your spouse/survivors would need to generate enough income for the rest of their lives. While you are discussing this, get a plan for your spouse as well unless you know for certain that you could cover funeral expenses and not have to disrupt your job or work schedule on a long-term basis. Even a house-spouse has the value of childcare. The agent, of course, gets paid more commission to sell you a longer term, higher benefit plan, and may try to push you into more coverage than you want/need. Keep this in mind, but don't short your survivors over benefit they may actually need/use.

Discuss with the spouse and agent what to do in the event of death and how the money will be delivered. It usually comes very quickly as a checkbook with an account created in the life insurance company that holds the funds. These may not want to be taken out immediately depending on family, social, or creditor circumstances. The insurance company may offer to pay out as an annuity. To a beneficiary that may not know better, this may sound like a good idea (it's usually not). To a beneficiary that is legitimately mentally impaired or disabled, this may be the best option to prevent embezzlement from malignantly interested parties.

I know several pharmacists satisfied with Pharmacists Mutual, although I haven't personally had a chance to look into their term lineup (not my interest), but I imagine that pharmacists are made of a higher-than-average longevity population, which in theory should make their rates competitive. Whoever you go with should be having at least one meeting with you just to get a sense of what you need, and be willing to change parts of the plan that you wish to see adjusted.

There is an incredible amount of flexibility (in whole life in particular) but a lot of agents that are focused on finishing the sale and moving on to the next that they often do not take the time to learn enough of about their product and end up selling an "off the shelf" product. This is pretty much where people have problems with life insurance (again, with whole in particular) because the agent was not spending enough effort to understand the client's wants/needs and educating them about the product. Do your due diligence and don't be afraid to show the plan to other people before completing the agreement, especially the survivors/beneficiaries.
 
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Thanks for those good pointers. Point well taken on staying clear of commingling funds.

what is “ER” ?

Expense Ratio (the percent charged in fees). Some companies quit paying certain fees if you're not working for them.

It's worth mentioning that there is different withdrawal patterns required for different types of investment vehicles to avoid IRS fees. eg, can I take my entire Required Minimum Distribution all from one 401k/IRA/403b? The answer is different for each an likely to change before we hit retirement RMD age. Probably still not worth co-mingling the funds for the divorce-proofing, though.
 
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Do I need to worry about co-mingling funds if my wife and I have the same income? Her 401ks have more than mine.
 
Do I need to worry about co-mingling funds if my wife and I have the same income? Her 401ks have more than mine.

It is easier to make the case that who owns what if you guys don’t co-mingle but divorces are usually messy. In California, if you don’t have a prenup...it is 50%/50% split after 10 years. She/he can also ask for spousal and child support after the divorce.
 
Do you guys keep the same asset allocation in your other retirement accounts (IRA, HSA, taxable) or do you use IRA for small cap, HSA for large cap etc? Trying to simplify.
 
Do you guys keep the same asset allocation in your other retirement accounts (IRA, HSA, taxable) or do you use IRA for small cap, HSA for large cap etc? Trying to simplify.
Depends on your options. If, say, your 401k only offers a cheap s&p 500 fund and everything else is expensive, I put everything into the cheapest fund.
 
Depends on your options. If, say, your 401k only offers a cheap s&p 500 fund and everything else is expensive, I put everything into the cheapest fund.

We currently have the same asset allocation sliced and diced between 6 different accounts, seems cumbersome. The expense ratios are all similar.
 
Do you guys keep the same asset allocation in your other retirement accounts (IRA, HSA, taxable) or do you use IRA for small cap, HSA for large cap etc? Trying to simplify.

The 401(k) is my total market allocation with the blackrock Russell 1k/2k. My Roth IRA has the vast majority in VDIGX. Everything else in the account is to play games with and feed that fund.

HSA is mostly into bonds, I don’t wanna see that drop too much.

My life asset product is my 6.3% savings account that nets me 2% yearly interest on any amount that I take out.
 
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Do I need to worry about co-mingling funds if my wife and I have the same income? Her 401ks have more than mine.
it helps you then!

I have been through a divorce, although we didn't have a lawyer and did it all ourselves - I wrote our separation agreement (actually borrowed a buddies and altered it to meet our needs).

Essentially we had similar incomes, similar retirements, and virtually no pre-marriage assets. so I guess in my situation it didn't matter
 
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I put my high risk stocks in my HSA (I am healthy) and Roth IRA because I don’t have to pay taxes on them.
 
Depends on your options. If, say, your 401k only offers a cheap s&p 500 fund and everything else is expensive, I put everything into the cheapest fund.

Yup....my company's options are s&p fund at 0.05% cost vs anything else being 0.5% and up. I'm not retiring for 25-30 years, so I'm just dumping it all in s&p for the time being. I'll alter my allocation as I get into my 50s.
 
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I put my high risk stocks in my HSA (I am healthy) and Roth IRA because I don’t have to pay taxes on them.

Do you ever cash out your Roth or HSA, or are you saving those for retirement?

This thread is awesome BTW, lots of helpful information here.
 
80% target date fund
20% international index

The latter to increase exposure to international markets.
 
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Do you guys keep the same asset allocation in your other retirement accounts (IRA, HSA, taxable) or do you use IRA for small cap, HSA for large cap etc? Trying to simplify.
I have a few small 401ks from per diem jobs and a HSA, and they have some funds that I don't get at my main 401k, so I put 100% of that job's contributions into that fund: e.g. Large company growth index, ER 0.01%. I then have a spreadsheet to total everything up and show me my overall asset allocation.

I then allocate between pre-tax (401k, HSA), Roth and taxable by tax efficiency. Highest expected return, short term trades and individual stocks go in the Roth because it's tax free. I've been doing the mega backdoor Roth ($30k/yr) and regular backdoor Roth ($6k/yr) so this will eventually become my largest account.

In taxable, I have Vanguard index funds and ETFs, and some individual stocks that I hold long term like AMZN and GOOG. Besides the small ~1-2% dividend on the Vanguard funds, you don't pay taxes until you sell, and even then, you can get the long term capital gains tax rate of 15% or even 0% if your taxable income is less than 40k single/80k married.

My 401k and HSA are just in index funds. But if I want to rebalance, I do it in my 401k because there are no capital gains taxes. Again, this is where the spreadsheet showing overall asset allocation comes in handy.

If you retire early, you can convert small portions each year from your 401k to a Roth IRA and pay taxes in the lower tax brackets: 0% under the standard deduction, 10%, 12%, so that you won't have to pay taxes from that point on.
 
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I put my high risk stocks in my HSA (I am healthy) and Roth IRA because I don’t have to pay taxes on them.

I put some in taxable so I can harvest losses.


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Do you think this is better?

30% Core equity (large caps)
25% Mid cap index
25% Small cap index
10% International emerging markets index
10% International equity index

Well damn, I rebalanced at the worst possible time. Small caps, mid caps and international got killed. I'm still down like 25-30% while everyone else seems to be close to even or even up for the year.
 
Target retirement 2055. WM has a ****ty 401k options IMO.
 
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